Trying to categorise Kiwi homes into distinct types/eras isn't necessarily straight forward. While we are all familiar with the typical Kiwi ‘Villa‘ or ‘Bungalow’....
General intro here, something about Kiwi houses through the ages and that this is relatively GENERALISED and maybe just include the more common types, ie I doubt many people will be renovating a GEORGIAN or QUEEN ANNE style house anymore? Bob/Dan, can you supply THINGS TO CONSIDER DETAILS - many will be the same for some of the eras, but I don't see that as a problem at all...
SOME KEY HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENTS | NEW ZEALAND BUILD
Bob, these are great, but not sure if these are finalised? I think they may need a brief sentence further to explain significance???? or maybe just a better explanation, ie 2023 ENERGY EFFICIENT doesn't mean a lot to me...
Re Building Code, this page isn't the platform to explain it's pitfalls, I can have a button link to take us to that particular page... (That page will also be in the main menu).
1952 Treated Timber was introduced
1978 Insulation introduced
1991 Building Act passed
1992 Building Code introduced
2004 Building Code ???? (Bob not sure if what you sent is what you intended here????)
2007 Double Glazing introduced
2020 Building for Climate Change
2023 Energy-efficient
One of New Zealand’s earliest house styles, dating back to the early 19th century settlers arrival from Europe. Modest and practical with a straightforward layout, these small homes often used local timber and stone. With traditional pitched roofs and small verandas, they eventually added decorative elements such as fretwork and bay windows, reflecting the adaptation of British architectural influences. Many of these cottages have since disappeared but some were maintained and renovated while new build interpretations have also emerged, evidence of the ongoing popularity of the style.
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:
FOUNDATIONS – piles, surface water and borer. Check the foundations for cracks and signs of shifting.
CLADDING / WINDOWS / TIMBER / PAINT CONDITION. Ensure the condition of the timber in the cladding and windows are in good working order and have been well painted and sealed.
PLUMBING (important for insurance). Old pipes, may need replacing due to mineral build-up, leaks or corrosion.
ELECTRICS /WIRING: Old original wiring is a potential fire hazard, especially near or in the roof where it’s likely to be covered by insulation.
INTERIOR: Check for scrim in the walls – a fire risk (important for insurance)
ROOF: Has it been replaced? Check the full condition including the nails and seals.
Late 19th and early 20th centuries and are a reflection of the country’s prosperity during the building boom of those times. Heavily influenced by Victorian and Edwardian house styles from Britain, these wooden homes are typically characterised by their one to one and a half storey structure, decorative verandas and symmetrical facades. Inside, you’ll find high ceilings, timber floors, bay windows and sometimes stained glass and pressed metal ceilings. The first Victorian villas were built completely with native timber.
ISSUES / RECOMMENDATIONS:
FOUNDATIONS
Brick/mortar may contain lime/asbestos; rising damp
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Re-pile; add moisture barrier
FRAMING
Generally untreated native timber (not toxic)
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Retain if sound; treat for borer if needed
BUILDING MEMBRANES
None
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Install breathable, non-toxic WRBs (Weather-Resistive Barriers) (e.g. Pro Clima, Solitex)
INSULATION
None originally. Retrofits may include urea-formaldehyde foam
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Remove UF foam (Urea Formaldehyde foam) if present; replace with wool, hemp, or polyester insulation
CLADDING
Timber with lead-based paint
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Strip paint safely (HEPA sanding or chemical removal); repaint with low-VOC paint. (VOC – volatile organic compound)
WINDOWS
Lead paint on sashes; no sealing
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Strip lead safely; upgrade glazing and seals
ROOF
Corrugated iron with lead nails/coatings
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace roofing; use non-toxic underlays and thermal wraps
VENTILATION
No extraction; stale air
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Add balanced MVHR system with low-VOC ducting
MOULD
Caused by moisture; not material-related
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Fix source, ventilate, and use mould-resistant linings (magnesium oxide, breathable GIB)
Introduced around WW1 and the dominant style throughout the 1920s. There is some dispute regarding the actual origins of the bungalow design in New Zealand. Some claim that the our bungalow-style housing was directly inspired by bungalows from the west coast of the United States, whereas others believe that it was derived from England and Australia from as early as 1910. Either way, architects adopted the style and made it distinctly New Zealand. With solid bones and a classic style, they’re a popular choice and are unlikely to go out of fashion.
ISSUES / RECOMMENDATIONS:
FOUNDATIONS
Lime mortar; minimal toxicity
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Add DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) and edge insulation
FRAMING
Untreated native timber; good condition generally
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Airtightness membrane with vapour control
BUILDING MEMBRANES
Absent
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Add non-toxic building wraps (e.g., INTELLO, Solitex)
INSULATION
Retrofitted glass wool batts (itchy, airborne fibres)
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with polyester, wool, or cellulose
CLADDING
Lead paint common; asbestos in some soffits or sheets
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Test & remove safely; repaint with low-VOC products. (VOC = volatile organic compound)
WINDOWS
Timber + lead paint
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Refinish safely; upgrade with non-toxic joinery sealants
ROOF
Lead nails; iron coatings; underlay may contain bitumen
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Re-roof with non-toxic underlays and sheathing membranes
VENTILATION
Poor
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Install MVHR with filtration
MOULD
Mould-resistant paints & breathable linings recommended
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Add passive moisture control, remove organic dust build-up
Art deco or moderne houses first appeared towards the end of the depression in the early 1930s and lasted until after World War 2. The principle of being ‘true’ to the building – to reveal the building structure rather than disguise it, and to be functional and was therefore characterised by smooth surfaces, large areas of glass, steel framing, chrome and cubic forms, with limited decoration.. Art deco houses are recognised for their unique character and heritage. Because of their age, renovated art deco homes are common.
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:
FLAT ROOFS & PARAPETS: Check for any moisture or water tightness issues.
LACK OF EAVES: Means the windows heads aren’t protected.
STUCCO CLADDING: A cement-based plaster coating sometimes installed over an asbestos backing. Cracks are extremely common as the cladding doesn’t allow for movement.
INTRO NEEDED FOR STATE HOUSES...
ISSUES / RECOMMENDATIONS:
FOUNDATIONS
Asbestos DPCs (Damp Proof Courses) occasionally used; concrete with poor drainage
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with PE (Polyethylene) vapour barriers
FRAMING
Untreated timber; often still solid
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Seal gaps; install membranes internally
BUILDING MEMBRANES
None or black bituminous paper (off-gasses)
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Remove and replace with modern WRB (Weather-Resistive Barrier)
INSULATION
Often loose-fill mineral wool or glass fibre
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Remove & replace with safe batts or blown-in cellulose
CLADDING
Asbestos cement sheets (e.g. SuperSix)
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Licensed removal; reclad with breathable timber or fibre-cement systems
WINDOWS
Aluminium + bituminous sealants
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with low-VOC joinery systems
ROOF
Iron or asbestos-containing concrete tiles
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with modern roofing. Use breathable underlay.
VENTILATION
Passive vents only
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – MVHR upgrade with air quality monitoring
MOULD
Hidden in ceiling cavities
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Fix thermal envelope; use mould-resistant linings
Need an introductory paragraph for this section... Also please check that the below pix are appropriate???????
ISSUES / RECOMMENDATIONS:
FOUNDATIONS
Bitumen DPMs (Damp-Proof Membranes); potential off-gassing
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Retrofit with new poly barriers and insulation
FRAMING
Untreated framing timber
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Add service cavity, membrane, and insulation
BUILDING MEMBRANES
Early building wraps degraded or tar-based
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with airtight but vapour-open membranes
INSULATION
Glass wool and foil insulation (now banned)
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Remove foil; replace with safe, fire-retardant insulation
CLADDING
Hardboard, asbestos cement, or early fibre cement
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Test and remove; reclad with safe cavity systems
WINDOWS
Aluminium single-glazed; rubber seals may degrade into VOCs
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with non-toxic thermally broken units
ROOF
Decramastic tiles (lead bitumen); asbestos flashings
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with modern steel or tile roof; ventilate roof space
VENTILATION
Internal moisture issues
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – MVHR system with washable filters
MOULD
Grows behind foil insulation and in ceiling corners
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Upgrade thermal envelope and ventilation
Need an introductory paragraph for this section...
ISSUES / RECOMMENDATIONS:
FOUNDATIONS
Slab-on-grade with no insulation; some chemical damp-proofing
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Add external insulation and control layers
FRAMING
Untreated pine – often decayed, not toxic but dangerous
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Remove and replace with H1.2+ treated or engineered wood
BUILDING MEMBRANES
Monolithic EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems) with polystyrene; non-breathable
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Remove and reclad with breathable, drained WRB (Weather-Resistive Barrier) system
INSULATION
Polystyrene or glass wool; often poorly installed
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Remove EPS (expanded polystyrene); upgrade with non-toxic batts + rigid board externally
CLADDING
Polystyrene systems (toxic in fire); fibre cement may contain silica
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with low-toxicity ventilated cladding (timber, metal, etc)
WINDOWS
Sealants off-gassing; poor flashings
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Replace with uPVC or thermally broken aluminium; safe low-VOC sealants
ROOF
Membrane roofs may use PVC or VOC-heavy glues
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Re-roof using TPO* membranes or steel with natural underlays.
*(TPO (thermoplastic polyolefin) waterproofing membrane).
VENTILATION
Poor air quality
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Full MVHR with VOC & CO₂ sensors
MOULD
Hidden in cavities; triggered by trapped moisture
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Strip walls, re-insulate, and rebuild envelope to breathe
Need an introductory paragraph for this section...
ISSUES / RECOMMENDATIONS:
FOUNDATIONS
Slab insulation often missing; minor emissions from treated timber or adhesives
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Design warm slab or retrofit slab edge insulation
FRAMING
H1.2 treated pine (boron – safe); some LVL glues contain formaldehyde
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Specify FSC-certified, low-emission engineered wood
BUILDING MEMBRANES
Modern wraps sometimes non-breathable
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Choose vapour-open, airtight WRBs (Weather-Resistive Barriers) with ecolabels
INSULATION
Glass wool; some foams still high in embodied carbon/toxicity
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Upgrade to wool, recycled PET, or hemp; avoid PIR/PUR
CLADDING
Composites or fibre cement with crystalline silica
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Prefer timber or low-tox fibre cement with safety cutting tools
WINDOWS
Aluminium; off-gassing in some composite seal
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Use low-tox, thermally broken frames and non-toxic sealants
ROOF
Generally sound; some asphalt-based products still used
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Warm roof design with low-tox insulation and breathable membranes
VENTILATION
HRV = air recycling; still VOC build-up
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Specify MVHR with HEPA and carbon filters; ensure full duct cleaning
MOULD
Appears from thermal bridging
SUPERHOME FIX / UPGRADE – Use thermal breaks, warm junction detailing, and airtight layers
Appeared from the 1940s through the 1970s, though their influence is still seen in new builds today. Inspired by international modernist principles, these homes feature open floor plans, large windows, geometric forms and minimalist aesthetics. The design incorporates both traditional and innovative materials, like wood, stone, concrete, glass, and steel, highlighting the era’s advancements in construction. Incorporates practical design, integration with nature.
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
The 1970s saw a variety of different housing styles emerge, such as ‘colonial’, ‘ranch’, ‘Mediterranean’ and ‘contemporary’. Regulatory changes around insulation, a reduction in the availability of flat sites and new construction methods also influenced the types of houses that were built during this period. Structurally considered to have ‘good bones’. Insulation in ceilings, walls and floor became mandatory for new builds and additions in 1978. Glass fibre, polyester, polystyrene, wool and paper are all used for insulation in New Zealand. Home insulation in New Zealand can be heavily subsidised by the government.
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:
DUX QUEST: Plumbing. Brittle pipes causing leaks and bursts.
ALUMINIUM WINDOWS: Bob/Dan a brief explanation?
ASBESTOS /TEXTURED CEILINGS & CLADDINGS: A major health risk and important to contact professional advice.
Ronnie mentioned this today... 90's style sleek - no eaves?????
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
Bob/Dan, were these an 80s introduction or earlier?????????. These multi-story homes are compact in design, often sharing walls with adjacent units in a semi-detached form, maximising living space in densely populated areas. Their architectural styles vary from traditional to contemporary to suit a range of personal preferences, while their modern amenities and energy-efficient systems make them appealing to those seeking comfortable and easy living. Found in all of our major cities, townhouses tend to be developed in areas with easy access to amenities and public transport. Rapid growth in multi-unit homes, which includes townhouses, shows the strong demand and return on investment for developers of these projects.
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
Lifestyle blocks cater to those seeking a balance between rural tranquillity and urban convenience, growing in popularity here since the 1970s. Situated in semi-rural areas within commuting distance of cities, lifestyle blocks allow for a blend of country living with access to urban amenities. A modern farmhouse style is often seen but a wide range of other designs are also pursued. Owners typically embrace a degree of self-sufficiency, with gardens, orchards, and sometimes livestock, alongside natural features like streams or native bush.
THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA. Bob/Dan...?
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